What did Chinese emperors eat? 中国古代帝王吃什么

in #food7 years ago (edited)

The emperor has a meal in his belly.
皇 帝肚里能盛饭

It is a well-known saying that "the prime minister can support the boat". But it is not always known that the emperor can hold a meal. The qing emperors only ate two meals a day, called breakfast and dinner. Breakfast is usually six or seven o 'clock in the morning. "Dinner time" is at noon, not two hours, about 12 to 14 hours (2:00 p.m.).
“宰相肚里可撑船”,这是人所共知的一句俗话。可是,皇上肚里能盛饭,大家未必都知其详。清代皇帝每天只吃两餐,叫“早膳”和“晚膳”。“早膳”一般在卯正以后即早晨六七点钟。“晚膳”时间在午、未两个时辰约十二时至十四时(下午二时)。
How much food did the qing emperors eat per meal? According to the history of the qing dynasty, according to the book of "the noise of the roaring pavilion", the emperor qianlong was saving his money by himself. The imperial palace used fifty gold, the emperor repeatedly added the nuclear, to the end of the year with only 20,000 gold, the close to the shortage of funds, but the emperor ignored. Another book, "the spring water chamber", said that emperor qianlong summoned his subjects and asked him, "do you want to be at home and have a snack at home?" Wang said to him, "the minister is poor, but he has four chicken eggs every morning." The emperor was startled. "the chicken needs ten gold pieces and four gold pieces. Wang dare not pledge his words, but the words are in the opposite way: "all the chickens sold in the outside world are broken, and those who do not give the money, the minister can be worth it, but only a few words." If these two stories are true, emperor qianlong could only eat five eggs a day, not starving.
That is certainly not the case. According to "the living" (emperor of ancient Chinese court records seers), kitchens for emperor qianlong dishes as follows: every day 22 jins, soup, meat dish of meat 5 jins, lard, 1 catty, 5 only 2 sheep, chickens, ducks and 3, cabbage, spinach, parsley, celery, leek, etc, a total of 10 jins, each 1 kg bag melon, wax gourd, green 6 jins, yuquan 4 two wine, yuquan 12 cans of water, tea 75 bales. There are also bird's nest, shark fin, duck silk, pigeon eggs, carp, rice, noodles, oil, salt, mountain Jane, seafood, fruit, dried vegetables, many of the raw materials are all over the country, the quantity is considerable.

清代皇帝每餐要吃多少食物?根据清代野史,昭梿所著《啸亭杂录》记载:乾隆帝自奉俭约,深惜物力,……御膳房日用五十金,皇上屡加核减,至岁末年用仅二万余金,近侍因资金匮乏而叫苦不迭,而皇上却不予理睬。而另一本野史《春水室野乘》则说,乾隆帝一次召见臣下汪由敦,问:“卿昧爽(拂晓之时)趋朝,在家亦曾用点心否?”汪对曰:“臣家计贫,每晨餐不过鸡子(即鸡蛋)四枚而已。”皇上愕然日:“鸡子一枚需十金,四枚则四十金矣,联尚不敢如此纵欲,卿乃自言贫乎?”汪不敢质言,则诡词以对口:“外间所售鸡子皆残破,不中上供者,臣能以贱值得之,每枚不过数文而已。”要是这两则故事都是真的,乾隆皇帝一天只能吃到5个鸡蛋,不饿死就不错了。

实际情况当然不是这样。根据《起居住》(我国古代宫廷记录帝王的言行录)记载,御膳房每天要为乾隆皇帝准备如下菜色:盘肉22斤、汤肉5斤、猪油1斤、羊2只、鸡5只、鸭3只、白菜、菠菜、香菜、芹菜、韭菜等共10斤、包瓜、冬瓜各1斤、葱6斤、玉泉酒4两、玉泉水12罐、茶叶75包。还有燕窝、鱼翅、鸭丝、鸽蛋、鲤鱼、米、面、油、盐、山珍、海味、山果、干菜,许多原料都是全国各地的进贡品,数量颇为可观。

乾隆帝喜食的燕窝

乾隆皇帝当政时毕竟是个成年人,末代皇帝溥仪退位时只有六岁,他吃到的又是什么呢?据史料记载,宣统二年(1910年)九月份一个月里,御膳房和太后送给小皇帝吃的菜肴,光肉就有三千九百六十斤,鸡鸭三百八十八只。加上几位太后太后,清宫皇室一家六口,总计一个月要用三千九百六十斤肉,三百八十八只鸡鸭。算下来,一个五岁的孩子,一个月要吃肉、鸡鸭合计两千来斤。按宫中每日两餐计算,皇帝每餐要吃三十多斤肉。这恐怕连《水浒》小说中一顿饭能吃个肘子的花和尚鲁智深也要自愧不如了。在东暖阁“用膳”的溥仪,在狼吞虎咽地吃着山珍海味时,如果偶一抬头,见墙上挂着光绪写的“节用爱民”四个字,不知他会有何感想。

Emperor qianlong's bird's nest.
After all, emperor qianlong was an adult, and the last emperor, puyi, was only six years old when he abdicated. What did he eat? According to historical records, in the first month of September, the imperial palace and the empress downed the food for the little emperor. The light meat was 3,960kg, and the chickens and ducks were 388. With a couple of empress downers, the royal family of the qing palace is a family of six, with a total of 3,960kg of meat in a month, 388 chickens and ducks. To calculate, a five year old child, one month to eat meat, chicken and duck together two thousand jin. According to two meals a day in the palace, the emperor would eat more than thirty pounds of meat per meal. I'm afraid that even lu zhishen, who can eat an elbow in the novel of the water margin, is going to be ashamed of himself. Pu yi in the east NuanGe "mess", when the Wolf down the delicacies, if I looked up and saw that hangs on the wall "section" guangxu wrote four word, I don't know how did you feel he will.
What do you eat?
According to historical records, the imperial cuisine of the qing emperors was mainly pork and mutton, vegetables and chicken and duck. It was not allowed to eat the beef, because the old emperor taizong of aisin (emperor taizong) had an early warning, saying, "the ox donkey is for the load, and the sheep are for the food." Such as sixty years of qianlong (1795) the first day of the first month, im qianlong late food including deer deer, hot pot yipin yanshan yipin medicinal liquor duck stew pot, fat comb chicken meat hot pot swallow, yam species, green pepper chicken soup pot chicken soup in fujian, enjoys the duck yipin morels yipin, bird's nest, steamed the kanto duck deer's tail saving dish swallow, burn fat meat saving dish swallow, small eye meat yipin oil, sugar cake yipin, rice cake in yipin, side dishes five, a plate of bacon, japonica rice dry food species. From the food, although abundant, but also do not see the so-called "hump, bear PAWS, monkey brain, the lips, elephant nose, leopard, the tail, the deer tendon" and so on "eight".
The bear paw in the movie "full han"
After the reign of emperor qianlong, the imperial court in qing dynasty became more and more luxurious. Rumoured to simple pole of emperor daoguang in fact don't injustice his stomach, light twenty-three years after the opium war (1843) at the beginning of October 6, dinner, emperor daoguang enjoyed: bird's nest, the eight immortals pot swallow three fresh su, pot swallow; Big bowl two: the bird's nest, the fat chicken, the young Chinese character wine; Chinese bowl four: sea cucumber duck soup, deer beef stew lamb, duck fire cabbage, eight bao braised elbow; Bowl two: three fresh meatballs, mushroom slices; Small sale four products: chicken fillet shark fin, stir-fried sweet clover meat, the steamed palm letter, fresh mushroom chicken; Bird's nest eight fairy soup, bird's nest; Dim sum: duck stuffed with peach and steamed food; Shou yi box, Fried food, pig, duck and duck. Neither quality nor quantity knew where his grandfather, emperor qianlong, had gone.
In the reign of the empress dowdy, the imperial court of the qing dynasty was extremely luxurious. Cixi dinner meal, there is a "dried mushroom chicken, three fresh duck, fat fat chicken shreds agaric, elbow, DiaoZi, stew meat stew cabbage, after a large fry meat, chicken soup cabbage, smell of mutton for a cucumber, bean seedling poach whitebait, fresh prawn ball, meat stew radish cabbage, ribs, sauce packets (as" explosive ") meat, ð « — including wax gourd as "xiang" (), smoked chicken wire, slipped spinal cord, pork butyl cucumber sauce, meat stewed cloud Bian beans, winter, three large and meat, Fried alfalfa meat, Fried sauce, spring Onions fry meat, dried mushroom lohan gluten, boil device, Su Zao spiced meat, pork meat soup, fat side pulp white steamed sponge cake, bean curd soup, old meade board, streams and upland rice japonica rice porridge, sweet porridge, Bi rice porridge, millet gruel, top two bowls of old meade meal, a bowl of japonica rice There was an increase in the time of the emperor's reign, but it was still not possible to tell the difference between the "full han" and the "full han".
Chicken soup cabbage
Dried mushroom fat hens
Besides, the last emperor pu yi in the Forbidden City, although the command eunuch (closest to serve the eunuch) commanded a cry, "the meat", the royal board room ready quickly, carried by the dozens of eunuch size seven board table, holding dozens of jinlong painted red paint wooden box, straight to yangxin temple, vastly NuanGe set in the east. In fact, after these dishes were put on the table, there was nothing to do but to show the emperor's platoon. Puyi to these long after the things, often is not moving. The emperor ate the dishes from the empress dowager, and the empress dowager was sent by four toffees. Since the queen mother and taffy have their own room, they are all senior cooks, and the dishes are delicious, and there are twenty or thirty dishes in each meal, and the snacks are better. When puyi was driven out of the Forbidden City by feng yuxiang and lived in tianjin, he had only five or six dishes per meal, with no more than eight dishes. Even after the second accession to the new capital of manchukuo (changchun), there were not many dishes, usually six or seven. The staple food is rice, millet and sorghum. Each meal is basically vegetarian: tofu, bean sprouts, cabbage, Fried eggs or scrambled eggs; When cooking, peanut oil is usually used. Such "imperial cuisine" standards are hardly reminiscent of the "full han", known for its luxury.
御膳到底吃什么

从史料里看,清代皇帝们的御膳原料品主要是猪羊肉、蔬菜,也有鸡鸭肉等。照例是不准吃牛肉的,这是因为爱新觉罗的老祖宗皇太极(清太宗)早有上谕,说:“牛驴以供负载,羊豕牲畜以资食用。”譬如乾隆六十年(1795年)正月初一日,乾隆的晚膳就包括鹿肠鹿肚热锅一品、燕山药酒炖鸭子热锅一品、肥鸡鸡冠肉热锅一品、山药葱椒鸡羹热锅一品、托汤鸡一品、羊肚片一品、燕窝脍鸭子一品、清蒸关东鸭子鹿尾攒盘一品、烧肥抱肉攒盘一品、象眼小馒首一品、白糖油糕一品、年年糕一品、小菜五品、咸肉一碟、粳米干膳一品。从菜品看,虽然丰盛,却也看不到所谓“驼峰、熊掌、猴脑、猩唇、象鼻、豹胎、犀尾、鹿筋”之类的“八珍”。

电影《满汉全席》中的熊掌“一掌乾坤”

乾隆朝之后,清朝的国势江河日下,清宫的御膳却反而越来越豪华起来。坊间传言简朴到极点的道光皇帝其实一点也不委屈自己的胃,鸦片战争之后的道光二十三年(1843年)十月初六日晚膳,道光皇帝就享用了:燕窝八仙锅子一品、三鲜苏烩锅子一品;大碗二品:燕窝如意卷肥鸡、万年青寿字酒肉;中碗四品:海参万字鸭羹、鹿筋酒炖羊肉、鸭子火薰白菜、八宝清炖肘子;怀碗二品:三鲜丸子、口蘑鸡片;小卖四品:鸡丝鱼翅、炒木樨肉、清烩掌信、鲜蘑熘鸡;燕窝八仙汤、燕窝八仙面;点心二品:鸭子馅立桃、蒸食;寿意盒子一品、炸食二品、炉猪一品、炉鸭一品。无论是质量还是数量,都不知道比他的祖父乾隆皇帝高到哪里去了。

到了慈禧太后统治的同治、光绪两朝,清宫的御膳豪华到了极致。慈禧一顿晚膳,就有“口蘑肥鸡、三鲜鸭子、肥鸡丝木耳、肘子、炖吊子、肉片炖白菜,后送大炒肉、鸡汤白菜、味羊肉汆黄瓜、豆秧汆银鱼、鲜虾丸子、肉片炖萝卜白菜、排骨、酱包(当是“爆”字)肉、饟(同“饷”)冬瓜、熏鸡丝、溜脊髓、里脊丁黄瓜酱、肉片焖云萹豆、冬笋丝炒肉、包三样、炒苜蓿肉、炸汁、小葱炒肉、口蘑罗汉面筋、烹掐菜、苏造五香肉、猪肉丝汤、脂油方脯白蜂糕、豆腐汤、老米膳、溪膳、旱稻粳米粥、甜浆粥、煏米粥、小米粥,上进两碗老米膳、一碗粳米粥”。菜式比之道光帝时期又有增加,不过距离坊间流传的“满汉全席”的差距,仍旧是不可以道里计。

鸡汤白菜

口蘑肥鸡

再说末代皇帝溥仪在紫禁城的时候,虽然御前太监(贴身侍奉的宦官)吩咐一声“传膳”,御膳房里便很快准备好,由几十名太监抬着大小七张膳桌,捧着几十个绘有金龙的朱漆盒,浩浩荡荡地直奔养心殿而来,在东暖阁摆好。实际上,这些菜肴摆上来之后,除了表示皇帝的排场之外,并无别的用处。溥仪对这些早已过了火侯的东西,常常是连动也不动。皇帝吃的是隆裕太后送的菜肴,太后死后由四位太妃接着送。因为太后和太妃们都各有自己的膳房,用的都是高级厨师,做的菜肴美味可口,每餐也有二三十样菜,点心也更好吃些。等到溥仪被冯玉祥赶出故宫,寓居天津时,他的每餐菜品只有五、六种,最多也不超过八个菜。即使到伪满洲国的新京(长春)第二次登基,做了日本人的儿皇帝以后,每餐菜品也不多,一般六、七种。每餐主食为大米、小米、高粱米三样;每餐副食基本是素的:豆腐、豆芽菜、烧白菜,煎鸡蛋或摊鸡蛋;炒菜时一般使用花生油。这样的“御膳”标准实在是难以令人联想起以豪华著称的“满汉全席”。

Puyi likes to eat Fried eggs.
"The full han dynasty" said where it came from.
So, where did the "full han banquet" come from? Li Dou in middle period of qing dynasty wrote "yangzhou original record" appeared "the manchu and han seats", in order to "buy and sell on street before and after the temples are large kitchen, feed for six department officials", the menu does have a bird's nest, shredded chicken soup crucian carp false tongue PAWS, pork bellies pinna duck tongue soup and other dishes, but in fact, this passage is about chienlung emperor in yangzhou tianning temple palace, local officials for the emperor accompanying officials receptions. As for ye under the reign of qianlong jiangnan feasting on imperial cuisine, is still "bird's nest fat food hot pot swallow, fire smoked dongpo duck yipin wine, deer tendon top the top comb stew meat, lamb slices, Fried eggs su yipin yipin, steamed to burn fat, bamboo shoots meat chickens and sheep wu save dish swallow, small eye meat fork yipin, white flour, steamed corn cake corn millet noodles cake species, otherwise the food into four products, Ann by liang huai salt administrative board table 2; Boobao, a table for food and food. Silver sunflower box small dish, four pieces of silver, with the rice dry meal. Food 6 table: six products, six milk products, a table; The inner tube takes eight plates, one table; Dish meat two table, each table eight; Lamb square, two tables. In any case, this is a far cry from the records of yangzhou.

溥仪喜食的煎鸡蛋

“满汉全席”一说从何而来

那么,“满汉全席”究竟是从何处而来?清代中期的李斗所写的《扬州画舫录》出现了“满、汉席”的说法,为了“上买卖街前后寺观皆为大厨房,以备六司百官食次”,这份菜单里的确有燕窝鸡丝汤、鲫鱼舌汇熊掌、猪肚假江瑶鸭舌羹等菜品,但实际上这一段记载,是讲乾隆帝南巡驻跸扬州天宁寺行宫时,地方官为皇帝随行官员准备的招待宴食。至于乾隆爷下江南时享用的御膳,仍旧是“燕窝肥鸡丝热锅一品、火熏东坡鸭子一品、鹿筋酒炖鸡冠肉一品、羊肉片一品、炒苏蛋一品、春笋炒肉一品、蒸烧肥鸡羊乌叉攒盘一品、象眼小馒首一品、白面丝糕糜子面糕一品,另有两淮盐政所进的菜四品、安膳桌二品;饽饽二品、安膳桌一品。银葵花盒小菜一品、银牒小菜四品、随送粳米干膳一品。额食六桌:饽饽六品、奶子六品,共一桌;内管领炉食八盘,一桌;盘肉二桌,每桌八盘;羊肉四方,二桌”。无论如何,这些与《扬州画舫录》的记载相去甚远。
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