YOU ARE FREE TO SALIVATE: Chicken With Green Olives

The Mediterranean food is what people speak of, they are often referred to that of the Spainish, southern France, Italy and Greece. The conversation occasionally includes the Middle East, but rarely North Africa. The primary reason for this is a lack of exposure, because often when people taste good North African food (no, it isn't all couscous), they become instant converts. The dish here, a classic Moroccan chicken sauté, is astonishing for its complexity, even in this relatively elementary form. It features sweet spices like cinnamon and ginger offset by garlic and paprika. But what makes it a real winner is the combination of those flavors with lemon and green olives, both of which have a mouth-puckering quality that, combined with the spice mix, is enchanting.

INGREDIENTS
• 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 3 to 4 pounds leg-thigh pieces of chicken, cut in two, excess fat removed
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 1 large onion, chopped
• 2 teaspoons peeled and minced ginger
• 1 1-inch cinnamon stick, or 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1 tablespoon minced garlic
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1 teaspoon paprika
• 2 cups chicken stock or water
• 1 ½ cups green olives, drained and pitted
• Lemon juice to taste
• Chopped cilantro leaves for garnish

PREPARATION

1. Put oil in deep skillet or casserole. Turn heat to medium-high and wait a minute, until oil is hot. Add chicken, skin-side down, and brown it well, rotating and turning pieces as necessary and sprinkling with salt and pepper as they cook; 10 to 15 minutes total. Turn heat to medium, remove chicken and pour off all but 2 tablespoons of fat.
2. Add onion, ginger, cinnamon, garlic, cumin, paprika, 1/2 teaspoon or more of pepper and some salt and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes, until onion softens. Add stock and raise heat to medium-high; return chicken to pan, skin-side up. Cook at a lively simmer for about 10 minutes.
3. Add olives and continue to cook until chicken is done, another 10 to 15 minutes or so. Add lemon juice, then taste and adjust seasoning. Garnish and serve.