My short life story

How Surfing can Change a Life
Many people have asked me how or why I started to surf , I have many reasons why I started and I’m going to tell you.
I am your usual A.D.D. kid. I wasn’t the best at academics but I could get A’s and B’s if I tried hard enough. That’s if I wasn’t surfing or doing something else. I was more into the sport side of school. For Marjory of primary school and some of high school I was in the first teams for cricket , rugby , soccer and hockey. But then in my 6th and 7th year of primary school everything went side ways for me. My parents got job opportunities in a city miles away from any ocean or form of water sports.
When this all happened I had just become really good at surfing. But then my stupidity said to me move to Johannesburg. So I went and everything was different. Sports weren’t based on skill level it was based on popularity. A thing a small town surfer kid like me knew nothing bout because it never existed in my small town.
But anyways, after two years in the city I had enough and moved back. The city life had broken me down to almost nothing. And this is when surfing became big in my life. Surfing change my life completely. I was that kid soo stocked on life and happiness. Surfing changed my life in many ways. I went from a scared little kid to the happiest lil grom alive.(a grom is a surfer either learner or under 18)
Surfing is ,for me , the most indescribable feeling in the world. No surfer can truly describe the feeling. For example take a depressed person and teach them how to surf. And I guaranty you their depression will decrease or even turn into happiness. When you on a wave cruising down the line it feels as if nothing exists besides you, your, board and the wave. Surfing has changed the way I looked at life. It drew me to the happier side of life.
I went from staying inside not wanting to do much. To not wanting to be inside. Having to be called home from the beach or a skate session , or filming in the waves. Surfing has made me a better person inside and out. It really can change a life.

here are some images I've taken.