Time

Time
25 March 2015 , I was heading to Vic bay which is a surf spot not far from my home town. I was heading to my first surf compition after I had been in hospital. The closer we got the more nervous I became because this is my first compition in just over a year. As I got to the even I wasn’t sure I could do this anymore. But after a short pep talk from my dad I was in the dressing room putting on my wetsuit and my wildcard jersey. Now a wildcard jersey is a coloured rash vest which helps the judges tell you apart from everyone else. As I went an sat with my dad on the deck over watching the other surfers battle it out into the quarter finals I started to siked up. I had my favorite song for preparing for heats playing on repeat.
Then my name was called to head down the beach. I gave my dad a hug and he said “goodluck my boy relax and have fun”. I headed down to the beach and started paddling out racing my opposition out for priority on the first wave. But he beat me too it. I had twenty minutes to beat him in average waves. His first wave scored him a 4.69, now I had to get a 5 to take the lead. A few moments went by and I looked out at the horizon and saw the set moving in. I tried paddling out without him noticing to try get the upper hand. I saw the perfect wave heading straight for me so I started paddling for it. It was a really good wave but had a lot of sections to it but I managed to get a few turns in. as I was paddling back out the announced I had the lead with a 5.94. After catching waves back and fourth I managed to get through to the semis because my last wave scored me a 9.45. I managed to win the semis and head to the finals. Now I had 30 min to beat this guy max. Now max has been surfing for 4 more years than I have and in my opinion is a really good surfer for a 16 year old. Fifteen minutes had passed and he was sitting on a total score of 13.83 and I needed a 4.66 to take the lead but I wanted to get a 7 . So I wasted 8 minutes sitting in the water waiting for that 7 score wave. i had 3 minutes left in this final to score a 4.66 as I looked out into the ocean I saw a wave heading in I battled Max to get the wave with 1 minute left I stood up on the wave and surfed my heart out. I did turn after tuning flowing down the wave. After a whole weekend filled with surfing it finally came to an end. As I walked out onto the beach they called out my score and it was a 4.65. that put my total score to a 14.84. That ment Max beat me by a 0.93. Now that’s not mad after a month in hospital and a year of just free surfing.

A picture of john john florence aka air king