Travel Diary: Gilgit-Baltistan Through the Karakoram Highway – May 26th to May 28th, 2024

I can no longer wait...

Life has been full of ups and downs lately, with no sign of stillness. Yet, I've decided to begin my travel diary, and I'm determined to complete it this week. It might take more than three parts to capture it all because such a memorable and extensive journey can't be confined to just a few posts.

So, today's diary covers the period from May 26th, 2024, to May 28th, 2024.

We set off from home on May 26th. Our first stop was in Rawalpindi, the twin city of Pakistan's capital, where we visited some relatives and enjoyed a hearty lunch. Oh, forgive me—I got so excited to write that I completely forgot to mention our destination and the journey we embarked on. So, let me share this beautiful memory with you: it’s the stunning valleys of Gilgit, Hunza, and Naltar that we explored... But more than the valleys, it’s the story of this long journey that I will likely never forget.

Our first proper stop, or rather, our first night stop, was in Shikiari, a little further from Abbottabad. At 806 km (501 mi) in length, the Pakistani section of the Karakoram highway starts at Abbottabad, although the N-35 of which KKH is now part, officially starts from Hasan Abdal (near Abbottabad).

The Karakorum Highway connects China and Pakistan across the Karakoram mountain range, through the Khunjerab Pass, at an elevation of 4,693 metres (15,397 ft) above the sea level.

The highlight of this entire journey was the tunnels... I mean, every time we pass through one, I can't help but feel like a child, bursting with joy.

We spent a night in Shinkiari.

The pine trees there, as suggested by @bambuka, known for their positive energy. I spent quite some time observing them, maybe even having a little conversation. Peace. Yes, if I were to describe this place in one word, it would be peace. After spending a peaceful night, we began our journey the next day. We had been informed that due to dam construction, the road would be blocked at one point, so we timed our travel in such a way that we would arrive at the blockade just as it was opening or about to open.

Well I have already given a detailed account of the hurdles we faced on 2nd day of our travel under tha caption: I witnessed the eighth wonder of the world - The Karakoram Highway, so here's just a quick recap:

On Day 2 of my journey through Gilgit-Baltistan, we traveled the Karakoram Highway—a route I'd always dreamed of exploring. My husband and I drove our new (but second-hand) Toyota Allion, which presented its own challenges, especially with mountain driving. We set off early from Shinkiari, but the day was filled with roadblocks, delays, and a stifling heatwave, making the journey difficult.

Despite these obstacles, including a frustrating five-hour delay, we pressed on, determined to reach Gilgit that night. After an exhausting day, we finally arrived around 1 a.m., greeted by a cool breeze and the comfort of good room service. It was a tough trip, but seeing the lights of Gilgit made every struggle worth it. This adventure, though taxing, is one I'll never forget.

Waiting at the first blockade... It was just a shelter with hot wind blowing from all sides. It was a strange contrast. Snow-covered mountains lay ahead, as far as the eye could see, but there was no sense of cold yet.

The second blockade was more interesting...

At first, we vented our frustration on those responsible for this unscheduled, or rather unexpected, blockage. Our car had overheated, which was causing some trouble with the brakes. The car had already gotten quite hot from standing in the sun for some two hours at the first blockade. And when we finally sat inside, we turned on the AC, and perhaps out of desperation, ran it at full blast. But to cut a long story short, the AC couldn't be kept on while the car was stationary... And then there was the issue of fuel consumption because there aren't any filling stations in the mountains.

So, as I shared in the sneak peek of my blog related to this, we finally got out of the car, and thankfully, there was a small spring-like stream nearby. The evening was approaching, so the air was getting a bit cooler. The kids and I dipped our feet and bottles in the water... The water cooled down a bit, and so did we...

The blockade was lifted after three hours, but now the concern was how to continue the journey in this new place, surrounded by mountains, with the Indus River on one side, in the darkness of the night. The children were with us, and we were getting hungry. Although we had packed plenty of snacks and water as advised by a frequent traveller friend. My advice to you, also, is that if you ever travel on the Karakoram Highway or any similar route, make sure to carry enough food and drinks, especially if you're traveling with children.

It had been nearly 10 hours since we set out in the morning, and we had only covered half the journey. We were both mentally and physically exhausted. My husband was constantly worried about the kids, concerned that they might get too tired. He kept telling them to sleep. After a while, when the kids finally fell asleep, we felt a bit more relaxed. However, the car's brakes still seemed somewhat unreliable. I couldn't tell if it was just anxiety or the new experience of the car's auto transmission brakes. But at that moment, my husband seemed really worried. Our roles were reversed—I was the one putting on a brave front, reassuring him repeatedly that everything would be alright. We had no phone service. We had bought an SCOM SIM card, but the signal was weak or not existent in the mountains.

So, we kept moving forward, taking Allah's name and praying. I was utterly exhausted and struggling to stay awake, but there are certain rules when sitting next to the driver—you can't fall asleep.

Every time we passed by a small settlement, we would try to get a mobile signal. Finally, we managed to get in touch with my husband's friend, who is also a traveler, and that brought some relief. It's so important to have good friends in life.

At one police checkpoint, the officer, in a very sympathetic manner, said, "You've really got yourselves in a tough spot today. But don't worry, the road ahead is as smooth as glass." That was a real relief!

We reached Gilgit around 1 AM. It’s a big city. That same friend guided us to our hotel. The internet service was still not working on our mobiles, so even Google Maps wasn’t an option.

I have mentioned in my previous blog:

"Yes, I told you at the beginning, we did reach Gilgit a little after 1 a.m. And it was a beautiful sight. A cool breeze was blowing, and the room service was excellent. We were served a hot dinner and very hot tea afterwards. All is well that ends well."

The next day, we were set to head to Karimabad. When we stepped out of our room in the morning, we were greeted by a breathtaking view that washed away all the exhaustion from the previous night.

You might remember that we were a bit concerned about the brakes, so before travelling further, we found a workshop in Gilgit and had them checked out for our peace of mind. We got a couple of adjustments done to the car and then set off on our journey...

What happened next? Stay tuned to find out, @kozanozdra and all of you!

_{I may have used some of the pictures previously in another category, but this travel log is unique. I intend to cover my journey chronologically, starting with the first three days of the trip.}