Mother Freaking Zits.

So I'm pissy this week. I have a pimple, actually SEVERAL PIMPLES. I am 30 freaking years old and my skin thinks we're 14. W-T-everloving-F. Last week I had two on my forehead like I had demon horns. This week I have two on my neck like I got bit by a vampire. Going to work is awkward. People don't take me as serious when I give them skincare recommendations when I have the dumbest zit on my face.

Thank you asshole hormones.

Since I'm dealing with that, let's discuss acne and WHY DOES IT EXIST?! Acne isn't simple and what yo' granny told you isn't true. Mine still believes that you shouldn't each chocolate and that sandpaper cured hers. cringe

Acne is its own ecosystem that feeds off of your skin's barrier function. It's a terrorist that holds your skin hostage and when it doesn't get what it wants - BAM this pore gets a pimple, that pore gets a pimple, YOU get a pimple.

(there's some OG content for you)

So before we talk about acne further, let's scratch the surface of what the barrier function or strateum corneum (SC) is and why we need it. Think of it as your personal invisible white knight.

It's thinner than plastic wrap, lighter than air, and more delicate than an orchid. It takes some fine tuning to get it in shape and keep it there. The primary functions of the SC is to act as a moisture barrier preventing TEWL (trans-epidermal water loss), defend from outside invaders like pathogens (ahem, p. acnes bacteria), maintain a sort of homeostasis within the cells, and protect from UV light (no, you STILL need sunscreen). It's made up of essential fatty acids (EFAs), ceramides, and cholesterols as well as skin cells, and natural lipids. It's all in this perfect ratio to maintain the body's process of creating new cells and shedding old ones every 28 or so days. Breaking this barrier allows bad stuff in and your body's process to become 'off' and work much harder since it wants to replace it. Most people inadvertently break this barrier because they believe acne needs to be dried out by using acids, abrasive scrubs, alcohol, peroxide, skipping a proper moisturizer, etc. Are we starting to see why we can't talk about acne without talking about the barrier function? When the barrier function is compromised or broken, it can temporarily stunt the growth of acne, overproduce oil , cause premature aging, lead to flaking and rough texture, and sensitize the skin.

So, how do we fix and maintain the barrier function?

If you came to see me for acne treatments, the FIRST thing I would do was ensure that your barrier function was intact and functioning properly. If not, we use a barrier repair cream like SkinCeuticals Epidermal Repair Cream. We look at ensuring your cleanser isn't stripping the barrier away, that your products aren't over exfoliating the face, and that your skin is properly balanced with a moisturizer for you skin. We determine your budget, the time you allow for a skin care routine, and then I suggest my magic formula. The ones with asterisks are typically the most of the 'must have' to ensure that your skin is going to be prepped for any professional treatments. This is ESPECIALLY important since treating your skin at home is more frequent than a professional treating your skin. At home care and pro treatments are pretty much equal. Doing one without the other is like brushing your teeth with no toothpaste or washing dishes with no soap. Just ew.

My "Magic 5" formula is this:

Product	Routine
1. A nutrient-rich cleanser*	AM & PM to gently remove sweat, debris, and pollution from the skin
2. A serum	AM &/or PM to feed the cells below the surface
3. A scrub or exfoliant*	2-3x per week to assist with desquamation and assist moisture in penetrating past the dead skin
4. A moisturizer*	AM & PM to supplement the barrier function and seal in products and moisture
5. and a SPF.	Every AM to protect from damaging UVA/UVB rays that cause irregular pigmentation, free radicals, and cancers.

Acne is also triggered by internal factors such as androgen synthesis, inflammatory foods, water intake (or lack thereof), genetics, environment, home care, stress levels, diseases or sickness, detergents, hair products, medications, and the list goes on. This is why it is so important to have an in-person consultation with a knowledgeable professional. Just because they have a certificate or degree does NOT make them knowledgeable.

To be continued....