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Have been surfing everyday for about 9 months. Hasn't been as long as 30 years but I have caught the surfing bug. I just tore my hamstring severely (grade 3) from foot slipping off board on 6 foot wave. Got at-least 3 months till I return to surfing. I might write up a post on my small 9 month journey till I can surf again. It would have to be the best sport in the world ;)

Wow Hope you recover soon! I've been to the emergency room five or so times with some pretty serious injuries but none life threatening. Probably the worst was when I broke my eardrum - it was the worst 'cause I couldn't surf for six weeks and it was the middle of surf season!

I will post more pics and some stories about my trip to New Zealand soon.

Thanks. I have a friend who burst his ear drum on the same day I injured my hamstring. Must of hurt. I guess at-least its summer now when the swell is not as good. I should be good just before winter :)

Is that you in the photo?

That's two years ago in the Taranaki region of New Zealand. I was the only guy out - photo by my wife Olga.
I strain my hamstrings all the time - now that I'm getting older - never tore it - but a lot of pulls. Seems they heal quickly! The ear drum felt like I got punched really hard - then I heard loud whistling - sucked. After the first few minutes it went away - but I had to let it heal or risk getting a serious illness - especially from the crappy water near my house!

Very nice photo. Great wave too. It is ausome to be totally isolated but I get nervous about sharks sometimes ;).

Best to heal up properly than get infections.

I think this hamstring tear is pretty bad cause it ripped the hamstring completely off the tendon. Total rupture. So takes longer than most hamstring tears because it was severe. I know that mick fanning ripped it completely off the bone and required surgery. Looks like I just evaded surgery. Seems to be healing well so far but I couldn't even walk in the first week. I've pulled my hamstring before but was nothing like this. I did a pretty good job the doctor said lol