Killer Big Waves - A True Surfing Story
"When you make a mistake, the ocean gives you an instant reminder. You get punished. If golf clubs could shock you every time you hit the ball wrong, we'd probably learn how to play golf pretty well."
- Laird Hamilton, Famous Big Wave Surfer -
A true story from September, 2001.
This is an excerpt from my personal surfing diary, originally written as an email to a friend.
The surf was intimidating.
Image courtesy of Oliver Raatz and http://unsplash.com
The surf was Killer Big today...
I had to battle my way to make it outside in front of the Carlsbad power plant. It was tough getting the measure of the waves, because they were quite chaotic. The tide was high, and reflections were bouncing back off of the rocks.
As things turned out, I got caught inside several times and was "worked" repeatedly.
When I finally started moving on a big right (the wave was maybe a head and a half high), I was well lined up and traveling at a good clip. I can tell when I'm moving fast, because my board starts to sing to me... Ah, but that's another story...
I took my time getting up.
Just as I started to get to my feet, I hit a rather large bump that was coming up the face of the wave as it crested. Sadly, it threw off...
That wave would have been one sweet ride if I hadn't gotten pitched!
As the day turned out, despite my best efforts, I only had one rather short ride. I decided I would ride it all the way in and call it a day.
Overall, I got my exercise. :) On a really rough day like this, with such large waves, I was just glad to get out alive.
I was glad to get out alive.
Image courtesy of Nathan Dumlao and http://unsplash.com
Maybe tomorrow will be cleaner?
We can only hope.
~FIN~
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I'm terrified of the ocean. Never enjoyed the beach. You must be brave to go out in conditions like that.
Ah, my dear... I wish I knew how to cure you!
The ocean is one of my favorite places, and surfing is majestic magnificence embodied! Once you experience it, there is nothing else that will do...
Thanks for checking in! :D
I love to surf but this sounds like a heavy day, perhaps out of my comfort zone. Thanks for sharing your story.
In the course of my surfing experience, I have found it important to do what I call "push the envelope."
While I do believe that a surfer's "comfort zone" is a very important feedback mechanism, I think we need to go at least a little bit outside it in order to advance and to learn. Just not so far beyond as to get ourselves killed! ;)
Glad you enjoyed the story, and thanks for commenting! :)
@creatr I know exactly what you mean. I'm still fairly novice at the moment so we probably have different size envelopes, but I certainly agree with your point. Everyone needs to step a little bit out of their comfort zone every once in a while as a way of validating themselves and embracing both the beauty and fragility of life. Thanks for your comments.
You're welcome. Thanks for interacting! ;)
My earliest memories of big surf was spending summers on the Atlantic west coast of England; growing up somewhat "sheltered" in Denmark, seeing (and getting in) 10 foot waves as a 16-year was really something else. I never actually tried surfing... but I always admired those who did; there must be quite an allure there; not that much of an adrenaline junkie.
Cool memory, though!
Yes, feeling the power of the waves is quite humbling... Until you are in them and experience it, it is difficult to imagine.
The allure is tremendous, especially once you have experienced riding a wave. And for me, at least, I don't think it is an adrenaline thing. There is a pure joy that I have on that dynamic roller coaster that I've found nowhere else. It is difficult to convey, but undeniable.
Thanks for your reflection on this!
I would have SO not made it out alive...I can't even imagine surfing or what it must be like! I'm sure it's a thrill, though. Thanks for giving me some insight to what it might be like (and why I should just stay away...ha!)
No, NOOOO..., don't stay away! :O
Surfing is the greatest sport in the world! :D Once you experience it, you are "hooked."
Then you just need to exercise good judgement, and only stretch your limits a little at a time... ;)
Thanks for your visit! And, do try it if you ever have the chance! ;)
Well, I guess it helps my cause that I am land-locked! Is surfing in lakes a thing? Oh, wait, that's called paddle boarding :). That's probably more my speed! Maybe if I ever make it to Hawaii...
Actually, there are quite a few who surf Lake Michigan, and possibly others of the great lakes. :D
And so, you're not "off the hook" yet...
However, if you ever visit the ocean, get someone to give you a lesson or two! ;)
Right! I would never just go out and try it on my own. That would be a complete disaster!
Cool story. Thank you for sharing.
Followed :)
Thank you!
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Upvoted!
TY
Knowing nothing about surfing, it was fun to 'get inside your head' and learn about your experience. Was the following day "cleaner"?
Also, thanks for including a link to your SilverEngines Proton. I have never heard of MRSA before.
Hello, @jannell!
I don't remember the day after that adventure... However, I do remember the days after this story:
The Thursday and Friday after "Big Wednesday" were some of the best surfing days of my life... Big enough to be awesome fun, but not so big as to be life-threatening... ;)
I appreciate your visit, and that you had a look at the proton... Please let me know if you have any questions?
;)
Will do! Gonna check out your 'Big Wednesday' post tomorrow
:) :) :) :) :)
That sounds exciting! But dangerous. I think I prefer reading about the adventure than trying it out for myself lol. I think I'm good surfing the internet anyway. Stay safe!
Thanks! :D I'll be careful.
Good story @creatr i'm following you please follow me and give me upvoted
TY
If you are down town in San Diego during the week hit me up, I will show you the view from the roof of my building. The cost is just a coffee.
I am thinking of making my office upstairs the steemit headquarters lol
That sounds very appealing, my friend. I will keep that in mind and look for such an opportunity!
SD Steemit HQ? Sounds great! The panorama is awesome!
This was from the other side.
Nice!!! :D
I will put up a post and call it FROM THE STEEMIT HQ lol
Excellent. :D