Jungle tales: village-based tourism in Thailand

boats in Khao Sok national park

‘Snake!” My guide’s shout shattered the peace of the lazy Sok river in Khao Sok national park, southern Thailand. He grabbed the rubber ring I was floating in and dragged me to an overhanging branch to gaze up at the black and yellow coils. For someone with ophidiophobia – fear of snakes – it wasn’t the ideal start to my community-based tourism trip. But even terror couldn’t entirely detract from the beauty of the river, meandering between dramatic karsts.

After a couple of days in Bangkok, we’d taken a sleeper train south to Surat Thani, which most travellers use as a gateway to the islands. We, however, turned inland instead for a stay at Anurak Community Lodge, between Khao Sok and Khlong Phanom national parks. The 18 stilted bungalows are surrounded by jungle, staff are mainly from the nearby village, and local guides take visitors out in Khao Sok park, a protected area of ancient rainforest that’s home to around 50 mammals, including elephants, leopards and tapirs. Out trekking, we spotted a troop of baby long-tailed macaques playing in the trees, and back at the outdoor restaurant watched a giant dark cloud of flying foxes float off to their feeding grounds at dusk.