my time it's also spent like that.
For me, this wave waiting is one of the best ways for meditation. While waiting several thoughts come to my mind; decisions are taken; the mind gets clear...and then the wave arrives and you are in harmony with it.
Aloha ;)
True. Agree 100%.
I also have “moments of clarity” after I surf, when I’m feeling my best, worked and noodly.
Aloha!