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freedom on the open sea.

Agreed. I’m more comfortable in the ocean than I am on land.

my time it's also spent like that.
For me, this wave waiting is one of the best ways for meditation. While waiting several thoughts come to my mind; decisions are taken; the mind gets clear...and then the wave arrives and you are in harmony with it.
Aloha ;)

True. Agree 100%.

I also have “moments of clarity” after I surf, when I’m feeling my best, worked and noodly.

Aloha!

Not much break there? When I was surfing daily on my GEE Escape Rainbow triple fin board 5'6" slasher, in Florida the biggest problem was crowds of rude surfer punks who thought they owned the ocean.
When I surfed in California the water was so polluted it made me sick every time I surfed.
When I surfed in the Gulf of Mexico it was a hassle cleaning all the Oil off your board and wetsuit after surfing. They even handed out TAR-OFF at the hotels in Galveston.

But some days when I could sneak out and no one else but a few friends were there it was awesome. There is nothing like catching a wave.

The best break I ever surfed was in New Smyrna Beach Florida Breaks to the left and right all day long.

I am land locked now and have not even been swimming for a few years.

And balance in life is so important! Surfing is on the bucket list, looks like so much fun. 11:11pm