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     6 years ago 

    Again, thank you for the tips. Looks like I have some more experimenting and manual reading to do.

    I used an f-stop of 20 (and higher) to improve the depth of field. There are trees in the photo that are much closer than the far horizon. My limited experience in optics for photography has proven that the higher f-stops improves the sharpness of the images. I compensate with the exposure time (up to 30 seconds).

    This morning I was also experimenting with the different metering. I haven't downloaded those pictures yet, but they looked great on the camera's screen.

    As for the filters, the circular polarizing filter always enriches my colors and aid in getting good shot of the sun as it rises just above the horizon. The clear filter is mainly for protecting the polarizing filter and the camera lens. It has saved my lens on more than one occasion. The window I have my camera setup in to take bird photos has been broken by golf balls.

    I have several sunrises in the can to process and post. I will read up on the selecting the focus points today.

    Thanks again for you tips and advice.

    Have a great day!
    Steem on,
    Mike

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     6 years ago (edited)

    I used an f-stop of 20 (and higher) to improve the depth of field.
    It won't make any difference to anything beyond infinity range of lens. Dopf will have an importance from < 6-20 ft away only. For sunrise you should set to infinity and go from there with the exposure/metering points. Sharpness will be very good at f8 and you'll need a shorter exposure than f20 = less noise
    filters - fair enough! I would say, priority is saving up for non-kit lens. 7D is really nice, better lens, no need to spend too much - Tamron or Sigma are good budget brand - will whip your results even higher. If you can't afford that, pretty much you could sell/swap kit around for lesser Canon body and better lens.

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     6 years ago 

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