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RE: Killer Big Waves - A True Surfing Story
Yes, feeling the power of the waves is quite humbling... Until you are in them and experience it, it is difficult to imagine.
The allure is tremendous, especially once you have experienced riding a wave. And for me, at least, I don't think it is an adrenaline thing. There is a pure joy that I have on that dynamic roller coaster that I've found nowhere else. It is difficult to convey, but undeniable.
Thanks for your reflection on this!